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District in East London, England

Human settlement in England

West Ham is an area in East London, located 6.1 mi (9.8 km) ♣️ east of Charing Cross in the west of the modern London Borough of Newham.

The area, which lies immediately to the ♣️ north of the River Thames and east of the River Lea, was originally an ancient parish formed to serve parts ♣️ of the older Manor of Ham, and it later became a County Borough. The district, part of the historic county ♣️ of Essex, was an administrative unit, with largely consistent boundaries, from the 12th century to 1965, when it merged with ♣️ neighbouring areas to become the western part of the new London Borough of Newham. The area of the parish and ♣️ borough included not just central West Ham area, just south of Stratford; but also the sub-districts of Stratford, Canning Town, ♣️ Plaistow, Custom House, Silvertown, Forest Gate and the western parts of Upton Park, which is shared with East Ham.

The district ♣️ was historically dependent on its docks and other maritime trades, while the inland industrial concentrations led to its byname as ♣️ the Factory centre of the south of England.[2] These sources of employment have largely been lost, though there has been ♣️ a degree of regeneration, in part associated with the 2012 Olympic Games.

History [ edit ]

Toponymy [ edit ]

The first known ♣️ written use of the term, as 'Hamme', is in an Anglo-Saxon charter of 958, in which King Edgar granted the ♣️ Manor of Ham, which was undivided at that time, to Ealdorman Athelstan. A subsequent charter of 1037 describes a transfer ♣️ of land which has been identified with East Ham, indicating that the division of the territory occurred between 958 and ♣️ 1037.[3]

The place name derives from Old English 'hamm' and means 'a dry area of land between rivers or marshland', referring ♣️ to the location of the settlement within boundaries formed by the rivers Lea, Thames and Roding and their marshes.[4] North ♣️ Woolwich seems likely to have been removed from Ham in the aftermath of the Norman Conquest.[5]

The earliest recorded use of ♣️ West Ham, as distinct from Ham or East Ham, was in 1186 as 'Westhamma'. The creation of Stratford Langthorne Abbey ♣️ (one of England's larger monasteries), and the building of Bow Bridge, the only dry crossing of the Lea for many ♣️ miles, are likely to have increased the prosperity of the area.

Tudor and Stuart [ edit ]

In June 1648, during the ♣️ Wars of the Three Kingdoms, a Royalist force of some 5-600 men won a minor battle against the Tower Hamlets ♣️ Militia at Bow Bridge and occupied Stratford for three days, before heading off along the old Roman Road to the ♣️ Siege of Colchester.[6]

Urbanisation [ edit ]

West Ham underwent rapid growth from 1844 following the Metropolitan Building Act. The Act restricted ♣️ dangerous and noxious industries from operating in the metropolitan area, the eastern boundary of which was the River Lea. Consequently, ♣️ many of these activities were relocated to the other side of the river and to West Ham, then a parish ♣️ in Essex centred on All Saints Church, West Ham. As a result, West Ham became one of Victorian Britain's major ♣️ manufacturing centres for pharmaceuticals, chemicals and processed foods. This rapid growth earned it the name "London over the border".[7] The ♣️ growth of the town was summarised by The Times in 1886:

"Factory after factory was erected on the marshy wastes of ♣️ Stratford and Plaistow, and it only required the construction at Canning Town of the Victoria and Albert Docks to make ♣️ the once desolate parish of West Ham a manufacturing and commercial centre of the first importance and to bring upon ♣️ it a teeming and an industrious population."[7]

Many workers lived in slum conditions close to where they worked, leading to periodic ♣️ outbreaks of contagious diseases and severe poverty. The pollution and

First World War – West Ham Pals [ edit ]

In the ♣️ First World War, the Mayor and Borough of West Ham raised a pals battalion of local volunteers, the 13th (Service) ♣️ Battalion (West Ham) of the Essex Regiment. East Ham also raised a battalion, but it joined a different regiment.

Essex Regiment ♣️ Cap Badge

The West Ham Pals were assigned to the 6th Infantry Brigade of the 2nd Infantry Division and served on ♣️ the Western Front.[8] The disbandment occurred as the British Army was so short of manpower that it could no longer ♣️ maintain as many units, the surviving members of the West Ham battalion were re-assigned to other units to bring them ♣️ up to strength.

Second World War [ edit ]

The presence of the Royal Docks, the Stratford railway lands and other high ♣️ value targets made the Borough of West Ham one of the areas of London worst effected by bombing during the ♣️ Second World War. There were officially 1186 civilians killed,[9] but this may have been around 500 higher due to the ♣️ disputed death toll at South Hallsville School.[10]

In March 1976, an IRA terrorist planted a bomb on a Metropolitan Line train, ♣️ but it exploded prematurely, at West Ham station, injuring seven. The perpetrator shot and injured a member of the public ♣️ and fled. The train driver, Julius Stevens, gave chase but was shot and killed. The terrorist ran into the street ♣️ where he was confronted by a policeman; he turned the gun on himself but survived.[11]

In the 1970s and 1980s, the ♣️ area suffered from deindustrialisation, including closure of the Bromley gasworks and West Ham Power Station.[12]

Administrative history [ edit ]

Local Government ♣️ – Ancient Parish [ edit ]

West Ham formed a large ancient parish of around 4,500 acres (18 km2) in the ♣️ Becontree hundred of Essex. The parish was made up of three wards: Church-street, Stratford-Langthorne, and Plaistow. The parish also included ♣️ the hamlet of Upton.

The wards of West Ham Civil Parish in 1867.

Initial administrative response to urbanisation [ edit ]

In 1840 ♣️ the parish was included in the Metropolitan Police District soon after the built-up area of London had encompassed much of ♣️ West Ham.

It had become apparent that local government in the parish of West Ham was not adequate to meet the ♣️ needs of the area which was divided between the parish vestry, highway board and the Havering and Dagenham Commissioners of ♣️ Sewers. Problems centred on provision of adequate paving, water supply, fire fighting and control of development. In 1853 a group ♣️ of ratepayers initiated moves to improve local administration. This led to a public enquiry by Charles Dickens' brother Alfred, a ♣️ medical officer, who published a report in 1855 severely critical of conditions in the slum areas.[7]

Accordingly, the Public Health Act ♣️ 1848 was applied to the parish, and a local board of health was formed in 1856. The board had 15 ♣️ members: 12 elected and 3 nominated by the Commissioners of Sewers.[13]

West Ham was included in the London postal district, established ♣️ in 1857, but not in the statutory metropolitan area established in 1855 or the County of London established in 1889. ♣️ Instead, administrative reform was undertaken in the area in much the same way as a large provincial town. A local ♣️ board was formed in 1856 under the Public Health Act 1848.

In November 1878 the inhabitants of the parish decided to ♣️ petition the privy council for a charter, incorporating the town as a municipal borough.[14] This was in reaction to proposals ♣️ to enlarge the area governed by the Metropolitan Board of Works to include adjoining districts with a population of 50,000 ♣️ or more: the primary aim of incorporation was to prevent the inclusion of West Ham in an enlarged London municipality.[7] ♣️ This initial application was unsuccessful. However, encouraged by the 1883 incorporation of Croydon, a second petition was submitted in May ♣️ 1885.[15] Following an inquiry in October 1885, a scheme for the creation of the borough and dissolution of the board ♣️ of health was made in June and the charter was granted in July 1886.[16][17] A corporation consisting of a mayor, ♣️ 12 aldermen and 36 councillors replaced the board, with the first elections held on 1 November.[7] The first mayor was ♣️ John Meeson, head of a local lime burning and cement making firm, and a former chairman of West Ham Local ♣️ Board.[18]

Local government – County Borough [ edit ]

In 1889 the borough was large enough in terms of population to become ♣️ a county borough and was outside the area of responsibility of Essex County Council – though still formally within the ♣️ county. At the time of the 1901 census it was the ninth most populous district in England with a population ♣️ of 267,308.[4] From 1934 to 1965 it was surrounded by the County Borough of East Ham to the east, the ♣️ municipal boroughs of Wanstead and Woodford and Leyton to the north, and the metropolitan boroughs of Poplar to the west ♣️ with the Thames to the south with Greenwich on the far side.

West Ham in Essex, 1961

Coat of arms [ edit ♣️ ]

The coat of arms was granted by the College of Arms on 14 January 1887. The chevrons on the lower ♣️ portion represent Stratford, taken from the device of Stratford Langthorne Abbey. At the top right, there are crossed hammers which ♣️ are also shown as the centrepiece of West Ham United's badge, representing the Thames Ironworks and Shipbuilding Company – the ♣️ borough's main employer. The ship is representative of the Royal Docks, and the area's long association with the sea. The ♣️ Latin motto "Deo Confidimus" at the base translates as "In God We Trust."[19]

The coat of arms of the County Borough ♣️ of West Ham

Formation of Newham and inclusion in Greater London [ edit ]

The omission of West Ham from the London-administered ♣️ metropolitan area, which took in nearby places such as Greenwich and Woolwich, was first commented on in 1855 and West ♣️ Ham Council later considered the case for inclusion in the County of London in 1895 and 1907.[20] The reluctance to ♣️ proceed with amalgamation was largely explained by lack of perceived support, fear of financial disadvantage caused by increased rates, the ♣️ detrimental effect of London planning laws on industry, and the desire to retain the independent civic institutions and privileges attached ♣️ to county borough status.[20]

The Royal Commission on Local Government in Greater London reviewed the local government arrangements of the Greater ♣️ London Conurbation and in 1965, under the terms of the London Government Act 1963, the county borough, and the County ♣️ Borough of East Ham, were abolished and their former area was amalgamated with small parts of Barking and Woolwich to ♣️ form the London Borough of Newham in Greater London.

Geography [ edit ]

The parish, and coterminous subsequent borough, lay east of ♣️ the Lea and north of the Thames, with Leyton to the north and East Ham to the east. The boundary ♣️ between West and East Ham was drawn from the now lost Hamfrith Waste and Hamfrith Wood in the north (then ♣️ the southernmost parts of Epping Forest which extended as far south as the Romford Road at that time), along Green ♣️ Street down to the small, similarly lost, natural harbour known as Ham Creek, the mouth of a small watercourse.

The area ♣️ of the parish and borough included not just central West Ham area, just south of Stratford, with the twin focuses ♣️ of All Saints' Parish Church and West Ham station; but also the sub-districts of Stratford, Canning Town, Plaistow, Custom House, ♣️ Silvertown, Forest Gate and the western parts of Upton Park which is shared with East Ham.

The areas along the Lea ♣️ and Thames were historically industrial with the remainder residential, mostly Victorian terraced housing interspersed with higher density post-war social housing. ♣️ Since its urbanisation the area has always been one of the poorest in London.[21]

Ethnicity [ edit ]

In 1971, individuals of ♣️ non-European origin comprised approximately 16% of the population of West Ham,[22] rising to approximately 30% by the 1991 census[22] and ♣️ 65.5% in the 2011 census. In 2011 White British people comprising 19% of the ward's population with Other White individuals ♣️ forming approximately 15% of the population.[23]

Transport [ edit ]

West Ham station on Manor Road (formerly called The Boleyn Ground) is ♣️ served by the London Underground Jubilee, Hammersmith, and City and District tube lines; the National Rail c2c services; and from ♣️ 2010 the Docklands Light Railway. Plaistow and Stratford stations are also close by.

Sport [ edit ]

The football club West Ham ♣️ United F.C. is named after the area. Their nicknames, the Irons and the Hammers derive from their association with the ♣️ Thames Ironworks and Shipbuilding Company, whose workers formed Thames Ironworks F.C. West Ham United F.C. played at the Boleyn Ground ♣️ in nearby Upton Park between 1904 and 2024. The West Ham Stadium, a football, greyhound racing and speedway stadium, operated ♣️ between 1928 and 1972, with a capacity of 120,000. The street names of housing developed on the site of the ♣️ former stadium pay homage to the speedway greats associated with West Ham, including Bluey Wilkinson and Jack Young. The West ♣️ Ham Hammers team were involved in the top flight leagues 1929 to 1939, 1946 to 1955 and 1964 to 1971, ♣️ winning the inaugural British League in 1965.[24]

While football is probably the main focus for the community, there is rugby, with ♣️ Holland Road, next to West Ham station, home to 3 rugby teams which play in Essex RFU leagues: Phantoms RFC, ♣️ Kings Cross Steelers and East London RFC.

Notable people [ edit ]

References [ edit ]

Sources [ edit ]

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